Amsterdam's own outcall companions

20 Local knowledge

The City Guide: Amsterdam, Told Street by Street

Look up at any bridge post in this city and you will find three white crosses on a field of red and black, the Amsterdam coat of arms, stamped on bollards, bin lorries and the sides of trams. It is a small piece of civic pride that locals barely notice and visitors rarely explain. This guide exists to close that gap. It is the local knowledge desk of Escorts of Amsterdam, written for people who want the city as Amsterdammers actually live it, not the postcard version handed out at the hotel desk.

We start close to home, in the horseshoe of canals that gave this city its UNESCO listing and its whole self-image, then push into the streets that sit just off the obvious routes: the Nine Streets and their independent shops, the hush of the Begijnhof behind an easy-to-miss doorway, the market bustle of Nieuwmarkt, the second-hand books of the Spui, the leafy calm of the Plantage. Every guide is built the same way, with real streets, real history and the kind of detail a good local friend would actually mention, arrival times, opening days, the difference between a Tuesday and a Saturday.

None of it is a sales pitch dressed up as a guide. We write about Amsterdam because Amsterdam is genuinely worth writing about, and because a companion who knows why a street looks the way it does makes for better company than one reading from a script. Where it is useful, a guide will mention a companion who happens to share the street's character, or point you toward the full roster, a nearby area or how a dinner date actually runs. That is context, not a pitch.

New guides join this desk on a rolling basis, always grouped by the part of the city they cover. Start with whichever street or square is closest to your hotel, or simply closest to your curiosity, and use the links inside each one to keep walking the city on the page before you walk it for real. Rates begin from €180 per hour, and anything longer than that is arranged on request and confirmed on WhatsApp, the same way the rest of this site works. The city does the rest.

Written in Amsterdam Updated as the city changes

20 The reading list

20 city guides

Routes, seasons, etiquette and timing, written from the streets we know best.

Start here5 min read

A Jordaan Walking Route: Canals, Courtyards and a Church Tower

One route through the Jordaan, Noordermarkt to the Westerkerk, that covers the canals, a hidden courtyard and the district's best streets in about two hours. Read the guide
  1. 02 5 min readBrown Cafés: The Jordaan's Living RoomsDark wood, low light and a room built for talking rather than looking at a phone: the brown café is the Jordaan's oldest social habit. Here is how to use one properly.
  2. 03 5 min readDam Square: the Dam That Named a CityDam Square is where Amsterdam got its name and where the city still gathers. A local's guide to the square, its landmarks and where to go once you have seen them.
  3. 04 5 min readEgelantiersgracht: The Jordaan's Quietest CanalNarrower and calmer than its neighbours, Egelantiersgracht is where the Jordaan slows down. A local's guide to its houseboats, its hofje and its best hours.
  4. 05 5 min readHaarlemmerstraat and Haarlemmerdijk: One Long Local StreetThis long, straight street runs from the edge of the centre out toward Westerpark, lined with the kind of food and design shops locals actually use. Here is how to walk it.
  5. 06 5 min readJordaan Craft Shops: Where Amsterdam's Makers WorkBehind the Jordaan's shopfronts sit working studios, ceramicists, framers, restorers, jewellery makers. A local's guide to the district's craft tradition.
  6. 07 5 min readJordaan History: From Workers' Quarter to Canal VillageThe Jordaan was built for the people the grand canal ring left out, and stayed poor for centuries before becoming one of the city's most desirable addresses.
  7. 08 5 min readNieuwmarkt: A Square Built Around a Weigh HouseNieuwmarkt centres on a medieval weigh house, fills with market stalls on Saturdays, and borders Amsterdam's Chinatown. Here is how to spend a proper afternoon there.
  8. 09 5 min readNoordermarkt: Two Markets, One Square, Very Different MoodsThe square outside the Noorderkerk turns into a flea market on Monday and a farmers' market on Saturday. A local's guide to what is sold, and when to go.
  9. 10 5 min readSpui: A Small Square With a Literary HabitSpui is one of the calmest squares in central Amsterdam, home to a Friday book market and a bookshop locals have used for generations. Here is how to spend a slow afternoon there.
  10. 11 5 min readThe Begijnhof: Amsterdam's Quietest AddressBehind an easy-to-miss doorway off the Spui sits the oldest continuously inhabited courtyard in Amsterdam. Here is what it is, how to visit it, and how to behave once you do.
  11. 12 6 min readThe Canal Ring: Amsterdam's Horseshoe, Explained ProperlyHow the Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht were built, how they differ in character, and how to read the ring like someone who actually lives here.
  12. 13 5 min readThe Golden Bend: Where Amsterdam Built Its Widest HousesThe Gouden Bocht is the grandest stretch of the Herengracht, lined with double-width seventeenth-century mansions. A guide to reading its facades and walking it properly.
  13. 14 5 min readThe Jordaan: A Neighbourhood Guide, Street by StreetOnce a crowded workers' quarter, the Jordaan is now one of Amsterdam's most loved districts. A local's guide to its canals, courtyards, cafés and markets.
  14. 15 5 min readThe Jordaan's Hofjes: Quiet Courtyards Behind Closed DoorsBehind plain doorways on several Jordaan streets sit hofjes, centuries-old courtyards built for the city's elderly poor. A guide to finding them and visiting well.
  15. 16 5 min readThe Jordaan's Music Heritage: A Neighbourhood That SingsLong before it became fashionable, the Jordaan sang. A local's guide to the levenslied tradition, the street organs and the café sing-alongs that still surface here.
  16. 17 5 min readThe Nine Streets: Nine Small Streets, No Chain StoresAmsterdam's Nine Streets pack independent boutiques, vintage racks and small galleries into nine cross-streets between the canals. Here is how locals actually browse them.
  17. 18 5 min readThe Plantage: Where Amsterdam Went to BreatheEast of the old centre, the Plantage trades gables and crowds for tree-lined avenues, a historic zoo and one of the world's oldest botanical gardens.
  18. 19 5 min readThe Westerkerk: Amsterdam's Tallest Church TowerThe Westertoren rises over the Jordaan and the canal ring alike, the tallest church tower in the city. A local's guide to its history, its crown and its bells.
  19. 20 5 min readUtrechtsestraat: The Street Locals Actually Eat OnUtrechtsestraat runs from the canal ring down to Frederiksplein, lined with delis, cheese shops and small restaurants. A guide to a street built for dinner, not sightseeing.

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